ABQ Journal Live Interviews Online: For the Love of the Grape

Edouard:

in your opinion where do you find the best Zinfandels and how much do you need to spend for a good good one

Jim Hammond:

California still has a lock on Zins, and many areas do great ones, but check out the Central Coast-South area for great ones at a decent price. Tobin James, Peachy Canyon, Castoro, and now Eagle Castle do a variety of Zins from modest to pricey prices.

Tammy:

Are there good inexpensive wines available?

What would you recommend in a red and a white?

Jim Hammond:

There are always good low price wines, but they do require research, i.e., tasting several to find what you like. I will warn you, you may be seduced into raising your price ceiling if you do.
Also check out online wine sales. The saving of sales tax often covers the shipping costs, and opens a wider range of wines to choose from, and often with good tasting notes.

Martha Burk:

Recently at an authentic Greek restaurant, we were served red wine right out of a cooler. What is the correct temperature for red wine, and does it vary by type or the food it accompanies?

Jim Hammond:

I always use my wine collar that wraps around a bottle to identify the correct serving temperature, so I don't recall the degree range for reds offhand. Too warm for a red opens it up too much, too cold and it hides many of the taste components, but do let the bottle stand for a while if it's right out of the fridge. (Not everyone has a wine cellar, ya know.)

Carolyn Flynn:

What's the best pinot you ever had?

Jim Hammond:

I'm hoping that hasn't happened yet. But most recently, a Te Kairanga from New Zealand impressed me a lot. First the Sauvignon Blancs, and now Pinots, is no one safe from NZ wines?

Carolyn Flynn:

In your fantasy of fantasies, what is the most sublime food-and-wine experience you can think of?

Jim Hammond:

We don't have space for that, but let me truncate. A French restaurant on the Med, with fresh seafood and Chabis would be a good start. The rest I'll save for an article.

Wineneophyte:

Hi Jim,
Where do most "Old Vine" Zinfandels come from? Are the bold, jammy flavors a result of the age of the vine or the region of origin? Any great labels for less than $10?

Jim Hammond:

You already identified the qualities. However, it is important to make sure the vines have quality grapes, age alone doesn't guarantee all those jammy notes most of us Zin lovers prize. I've even had a couple of Old Vine Zins I didn't like, and it is becoming a marketing ploy for some, so be careful in your selections.
And yes, it is still possible to buy some at under $10, but Central Coast or new startups are your best bet there.

Martha Burk:

Beer goes well with New Mexican food, which as we know is high on green and red chile. Are there wines that work, or are we always stuck with brew?

Jim Hammond:

Spicy food usually calls for sweeter wines, but not too sweet. A wine with good acidity and some sweetness in the taste will work. But why not a cerveza, you don't always need to comp food with wine. Give your palate a rest once in a while.

Martha Burk:

I like champagne at six every night, but I can't afford Dom Perignon. Any suggestions for a good reasonably priced champagne?

Jim Hammond:

Every night? Can I come over? I always recommend Gruet. Sales at $10-12 are your best deal worldwide in my humble opinion (OK, it really isn't that humble).

Martha Burk:

I would love to see an Albuquerque Journal/Jim Hammond wine course. Any plans?

Jim Hammond:

You're talking to the wrong person, but I'd love to do them. Wine tasting is always fun and informative, and I've never lost my love of teaching (30+ years) so it could happen . . it could happen.

Dan:

So I've gotten into the habit of asking a wine steward at restaurants to recommend a wine, but I don't want to spend a million bucks on a bottle to go with my food. What's a good way to scan a wine list for soemthing, and not look cheap?

Jim Hammond:

Read the whole list, sniff disapprovingly, then sigh, then turn to the steward and say, Oh, just bring me the (the cheap wine you really want) and wave him off.

Ralph Estes:

We often hear the term "Big, bold red" in describing red wine. What does it mean, and how does it apply to pairing red wine with food?

Jim Hammond:

It sometimes means they went overboard on oaking or starting with a high brix, and it has been applied to wines that were not bold unless you count bold-faced lies.
It does mean you better have beef dishes that can stand up to the wine.

Dan:

Are Zins actually wine? I met a guy who said he was a fan of zinfandels, but come on. Don't those mainly come in boxes?

Jim Hammond:

I would never drink ANY wine in a box Worst way to present a wine unless you like the ease dispensing, and I've never tried more than 2-3 oz. without getting a hangover. Avoid them at all costs.
Zins should be in a bottle, preferably those high-necked ones I can't fit in my wine cellar.

Carolyn Flynn:

I'm surprised by your fantasy food-and-wine combo. I thought for sure you'd say lamb and a red wine. Speaking of lamb, what wine is your favorite to pair with lamb?

Jim Hammond:

I'm sorry, I didn't know you wanted a specific answer. :-)
Pinot Noir and lamb are a match made in heaven. But Pinot Noir is one of the best food-pairing reds, so don't just save it for the lamb.

Ralph Estes:

Does Riesling get a bum rap? I've seen waiters turn their noses up when it's ordered.

Jim Hammond:

I thought that was the preferred position for waiter's nose? Oh, well, actually, Rieslings are one of the best food-pairing whites, but German and French Rieslings, not most California ones. Of course if you ordered the Riesling with Steak Diane, I can see the waiter's point.

Carolyn Flynn:

You've mentioned the California Central Coast wines as a personal favorite. In your opinion, in what ways are California wines stellar? In what ways are they lacking? In other words, help us sort out the best from the rest.

Jim Hammond:

The terrior is one of the reasons - the combo of soil, climate, location, and the expertise of many wine makers. UC Davis has students from around the world go there to learn about wine. They also have the best marketeers so go with caution.
The downside is the amount of oaking of wines, particularly the whites. Oaking is not just fermenting in oak, but actually adding oak chips to the brew. It makes the wines sweeter, sometimes with enough toasty notes to make you check for splinters.

Wineneophyte:

I have found only a few wines from New Mexico worth drinking. Many have funky (even metallic) flavor notes, and a lack of body and complexity. Why is this since grapes have been grown here for centuries?

Jim Hammond:

The quality of NM wines has gone up consistently since I moved here in 1999, and no it isn't because of my arrival. Some wines still have that funky style, but many wines, particularly the reds have good body, structure, and award-wining taste. I've had less luck with whites, but the climate here is more forgiving of red grapes.

Carolyn Flynn:

Dan must be thinking of white zins, which often get put in a box. Red zins are another thing entirely. Could you explain the difference?

Jim Hammond:

How about night and day?
Most Zin lovers don't even clarify they mean red Zin. White Zin is vinified without fermenting on the grape skins, so the fruit sugar is more forward, making a sweeter wine. It is a good entry-level wine for those starting out learning about wine. But please, only buy it in the bottle.

Martha Burk:

We often hear that "all the rules are out the window" on pairing wine and food (e.g. reds with meat, white with fish). What is the best rule of thumb?

Jim Hammond:

Your taste. No thumbs allowed. But the best qualities of both food and wine come out when they are paired well. Start with the rule, bend it to your tastes, and you'll seldom be disappointed. Of course, you guests may complain about the white Zin and Sweetbreads, but that's their problem.

For the Love of the Grape

Transcript